B2-19 · Dear Prague: An American Looks at the Czechs

Dear Prague: An American Looks at the Czechs

A blog post by Ryan Mitchell, a teacher from Ohio who has lived in the Czech Republic for three years.

When I told my friends in Columbus that I was moving to Prague, most of them asked the same question: "Isn't that in Yugoslavia?" Three years later, I can confidently say that it is not, and that I have learned more about Czechs – and about myself – than I ever expected. Here are the things that surprised me most.

1. Nobody smiles at strangers (and that's OK)

In the US, we smile at everyone: the cashier, the bus driver, the guy walking his dog. My first week in Prague, I smiled at a woman on the tram, and she looked at me as if I were trying to steal her purse. I later learned that for many Czechs, smiling at strangers seems fake or suspicious. A smile here has to be earned. The good news is that when a Czech finally smiles at you, it really means something.

2. "How are you?" is a real question

In America, "How are you?" means "hello". The correct answer is "Good, thanks!" even if your dog just died. In Czech, Jak se máš? is a genuine question, and you may get a ten-minute answer about someone's back pain, their boss and the price of butter. I find this honesty refreshing. Czechs don't pretend everything is great. In fact, complaining seems to be something of a national sport.

3. Shoes off!

The first time I visited a Czech friend's apartment, I walked straight into the living room in my sneakers. The silence was deafening. Here, you take your shoes off at the door, and you will usually be offered a pair of slippers (papuče). Every Czech household seems to own a basket of slippers for guests, in all sizes. I now own three pairs myself.

4. Nature is a religion

Czechia is often called one of the least religious countries in Europe, but I'd argue that Czechs do worship something: the forest. On weekends, cities empty as people head to their chata or chalupa (cottage), go hiking on perfectly marked trails or pick mushrooms with almost scientific seriousness. My colleague once showed me a mushroom and said, "This one is delicious. That one, almost identical, will kill you." I have not gone mushroom hunting alone since.

5. Beer is cheaper than water (really)

Every American has heard that Czechs drink a lot of beer, and the statistics confirm it: Czechs drink more beer per person than any other nation. What surprised me was the culture around it. A pub (hospoda) is a living room for the whole village. Grandparents, students and the local mayor sit at the same table. The waiter keeps bringing new beers until you put a coaster on top of your glass. And yes, in some places, a half-liter of beer is still cheaper than a bottle of mineral water.

6. Dark humor and quiet pride

Czech humor took me a while to understand. It is dry, ironic and often dark. People joke about history, politics and themselves, and they love absurd characters like the Good Soldier Švejk or Jára Cimrman, a fictional genius who supposedly invented almost everything. At the same time, Czechs are quietly proud of things the world doesn't know enough about: Jan Hus, the Velvet Revolution, contact lenses, the word "robot", and a hockey gold medal from 1998 that everyone over thirty can still describe minute by minute.

What I'll take home

One day I'll probably move back to Ohio. When I do, I'll take a few Czech habits with me. I'll take my shoes off at the door. I'll go to the woods on Sunday. And maybe I'll stop answering "Great!" when I'm not.

But I'll keep smiling at strangers. Some things you just can't change.